BRIHADEESWARA TEMPLE THANJAVUR PART-1

BRAHADESWARA TEMPLE

Brahadeswara Temple layout

The Brahadeswara Temple is in the center of the town and can be viewed from any corner of the town.This Shiva temple was built by King Raja Raja Chola (985-1012 AD).It is said that it took about 6 years to build this temple.This temple is referred as Big Temple ( Periya Kovil).

This temple has been declared as UNESCO heritage site. This temple was completed in the year 1010 and turned 1000 years old in 2010.

This is not a single temple but a large temple complex more like a fort having multiple temple and shrines. We found a compound surrounding temple like fort walls.

The layout of the temple is shown in the photo above.

Details of Structures in Brahadeswara Temple

Since the photo above is not very clear I am listing the structures in the temple complex as below:

1. Maratha Entrance 2. Keralantakan Tiruvasal 3. Rajarajan Tiruvasal 4. Nandi Mandapam 5. Varahi Shrine 6. South Cloister Mandapam 7. Brihadeeswarar Temple
8. Interpretation Centre 9. Ganesha Shrine 10.Karuvur Devar Shrine 11.Subrahmanya Shrine 12.Chandikesvara Shrine 13.North Cloister Mandapam 14.Amman Shrine
15. Nataraja Mandapam

We enter the temple through the Maratha Entrance which is the first gate.This was built during the Maratha rule as the name implies.Beautiful carvings can be seen at the entrance.

Maratha Entrance

Maratha Entrance

Once we cross the Maratha Entrance we come to the Keralanathan Tiruvasal. This was built by King Raja Raja Chola -1 to commemorate his victory over Cheras.

Keralanathan Tiruvasal

Once we cross the Keralanathan Tiruvasal is the Rajarajan Tiruvasal.This structure is made of granite. This gopura has beautiful stone carvings depicting various episodes like the marriage of Siva and Parvati, Siva protecting Markandeya, Arjuna winning the pasupata weapon. This structure has two massive stone carvings on the two sides which is beautiful.

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Decorated Nandi

Moving ahead, we come to the Nandi Mandapam.Here you can see a huge Nandi made out of a single granite stone and said to be second biggest in India. This is said to be done during 16th-17th century during the rule of Nayaks. The ceiling has beautiful paintings.The day we visited was Mattu Pongal festival and the Nandi was decorated with fruits and vegetables. The carvings in the pillars of Nandi Mandapam are intricate and beautiful. To the right of the Nandi Mandapam is the Nataraja Mandapam. This is a simple rectangular stone structure built as a covered hall. This structure was built around 1800 AD by the Marathas under Sarafoji II. Diagonally opposite to Nandi Mandapam is the Amman Shrine, built around 13^th century by the Pandyas.

Right in front of Nandi is the main temple of Lord Brahadeswara.

Many tamil inscriptions can be seen on the temple wall as shown in photographs below

Brahadeswara temple is within Thanjavur city and can be seen from any part of the city. The main deity here is Lord Brahadeswara (Shiva). The temple is said to be built by King Raja Raja Chola (985-1012 AD).

This has been declared as a World Heritage Monument by UNESCO and is maintained by ASI.

The Shivalingam here is 58 feet in circumference and 12 feet high. This is a smaller Shivalingam when compared to the idol in Gangaikonda Cholapuram. Since we visited on a festival day large crowd was there and we had to stand in queue for a long time for darshan.

This is a regular temple with Poojas.

It is said that the great traveller Marco Polo visited Thanjavur and this temple and his image can be seen in the outer walls of the temple.

The temple complex also has shrines of Ganesha, Subramania, Varahi, Karuvur Devar and Chandikeswara.

Ganesha Shrine is relatively a very small structure built by Sarabhoji at the end of 18^th century. This structure is east facing and the idol inside is clearly visible from the raised platform.

To the right of Brihadeeswarar Temple, is the Chandikesvara Shrine built by the Nayaks in the 16^th century.

Next to Chandikesvara Shrine is the Subrahmanya Shrine built by the Nayaks in the 17^th century. 

This is a small shrine next to the North Cloister Mandapam dedicated to the goddess Varahi.

In the North cloister mandapam we find navagrahas in the form of  Shiva Lingas as in the photographs below.

In this blog, I have tried to appraise the visitors to this temple what to see, but much more can be written about this temple.

 Hope this helps in planning the visit to this temple in Thanjavur. I will be posting a blog on   other places to see in Thanjavur shortly.

NAVAGRAHA TEMPLES - KUMBAKONAM - THANJAVUR- KARAIKAL

NAVAGRAHA TEMPLES - KUMBAKONAM- THANJAVUR- KARAIKAL

I had been planning to visit Navagraha temples and other major temples in Kumbakonam and Thanjavur for a long time. After discussing with my wife who loves temple visits we decided to visit these temples during Pongal/Sankranthi festival this year. Accordingly we booked our tickets to Kumbakonam by Myladuthurai express 16232 leaving Bangalore at 7 PM and reaching Kumbakonam at 5.45 AM. Timing-wise, this is convenient train. The only drawback is that the train does not have a pantry and it is better to carry food and water.
We had booked our stay at Sara Regency - a modest 3 star hotel and also made arrangements to hire a taxi for visiting the temples. We discussed with the driver the best way to cover all Navagraha temples and a few other important temples and finalized our plans. The hotel was kind enough to provide us a map giving locations and distances of temples.

HOW WE PLANNED THE VISIT
Day-1 
Morning- Thirunageswaram (Rahu Temple) - Uppiliappan Temple - Alangudi (Guru Temple)
Patteswaram Temple - Thiruvalanchuzhi - Swamimalai.
Afternoon- Airawateswar Temple - Aadhi Kumbeswar Temple - Sarangapani Temple - Mahamaham Tank - Chakrapani Temple.

Day-2 Suryanallar (Sun Temple) - Kanchanur (Sukran Temple) - Thirumanancheri - Mayiladuthurai Vaitheeswaran Koil (Sevvai) - Thiruverkadu (Budhan Temple) - Keezhperumpallam (Ketu Temple) - Thirunallar (Saneeswara Temple)

Day-3 Gangaikonda Cholapuram - Thingaloor (Chandran Temple) - Thanjavur.

Day-4 Brihadeeswara Temple - Punnainallur Mariamman - Sivagangai gardens - Swartz Church - Thanjavur Palace. 

This blog relates only to Navagraha Temples. The other temples are covered separately.

NAVAGRAHA  TEMPLES LOCATION MAP

COURTESY SARA REGENCY

RAHU TEMPLE

The first temple we visited was Thirunageswaram (Rahu temple) which was about 10 Kms from our hotel. Sri Naganathaswamy Temple, Thirunageswaram has exclusive shrines for Naganatha Swamy (Shiva), Pirayani Amman (Parvathi), Giri-Gujambika (Parvathi) and Rahu with his divine spouses. Goddess Girigujambika has a separate shrine in the north side inside the temple campus as it is believed that the goddess is in mode of deep penance. This temple is believed to be built in 10 th Century by Aditya Chola. The temple tank is named Surya Pushkarini.

A unique feature of Sri Naganathaswamy Temple is that Rahu Bhagavan is seen with a human face. Usually in other places, Rahu Bhagavan is seen with a serpent face. Here Rahu Bhagavan is present with his two consorts Nagavalli and Nagakanni.

Timings- 6 am -12.45 pm and 4 pm -8.30 pm

GURU TEMPLE

The next Navagraha temple we visited was Guru temple at Alangudi about 17 Kms.

Aapatsahayeswarar Temple, Alangudi is one of the Navagraha temples dedicated to Lord Shiva located in the village of Alangudi in the of Tiruvarur district. Alangudi is the “Guru Stalam” dedicated to the planet Jupiter.

The presiding deity here is Aapathsahayeswarar and his consort is Elavarkuzhali Ammai or Umayammai. The other deities are, Lord Ganesha/Vinayagar known here as “Sri Kalangamar Katha Vinayagar”, Lord Murugan  with his consorts; and Goddess Lakshmi. The temple has a 5-tier rajagopuram; one facing main deity and the other gopuram facing North side.

Timings 6 am -12 pm and 4 pm -8 pm

SUKRAN TEMPLE

The next Navagraha temple we visited was Kanjanoor. Agneeswarar Temple at Kanjanoor is  dedicated to Lord Sukran Venus planet. Lord Shiva and Parvati in Kanjanur are worshipped as Agneeswarar and Karpagavalli Amman. The main deity, Agneeswarar in the form of lingam depicts Lord Sukra. The Idol of Natarajar is very beautiful. In addition we visited shrines of Subramanya swamy on peacock,Mahalakshmi, Anjaneyar, Navagrahas and Bhairavar inside temple corridor.

Timings 7 am -12 pm and 4 pm -8 pm

SEVVAI TEMPLE

Vaitheeswaran temple was the next in our Navagraha temple visit. Vaitheeswaran Koil dedicated to the Lord Shiva. Shiva is worshipped as Vaitheeswaran or the “God of healing” and it is believed that prayers to Vaitheeswaran can cure many diseases. This is a very big temple.

The Vaitheeswaran Koil has a 5-tier Rajagopuram. The central shrine is that of Vaitheeswaran present as lingam in the innermost place.  The other  images of deities in the sanctum are of Natarajar, Somaskanda, Angaraka and stone sculptures of Durga, Dakshinamoorthy, Surya (Sun god), Jatayu, Vedas, Sampati. The shrine of Thaiyalnayaki who stands with the medicinal oil to cure the diseases of the devotees is present in the second precinct facing south. It is believed by devotees that they pour salt, pepper and jaggery in front of this Goddess, they will be cured of all ailments. They sell packets of these items for the convenience of pilgrims. 

The large precinct also has a small shrine to Dhanvantari and shrine of Angaraka in stone sculpture. The southern gateway from this precinct leads to the temple tank and directly faces the Thaiyalnayaki shrine. The Sthala Vriksha or temple tree is Neem tree, which possesses medicinal properties. It is located in the eastern gateway of the temple. The eastern gateway also has the model temple that is a replica of the main shrines. There is a fine metal image of Gangavisarjanar inside the temple.

The Vaitheeswaran Koil is guarded by Bhairava on the East, Veerabhadran on the west, Karpaga Vinayagar on the South and Mother Kali on the north. The sanctum faces west.

The Navagrahas unlike in other temples, are in a row. There is a separate idol for Chevvai.

Vaitheeswaran Koil has several mandapams and 4 rajagopurams and a significant feature in the temple construction is that the western tower allows the rays of the sun to fall on the Shivalingam for a few days every year.

Timings 6 am -1 pm and  4 pm -9 pm

BUDHAN TEMPLE

After visiting Vaitheeswaran temple we went to Thiruvenkadu where Budha (Planet Mercury) temple is located. We entered the temple through a seven-tiered Gopuram with 9 kalashas.

Swetharanyeswarar temple is the abode of Bhudhan at Thiruvenkadu. The main deity is Shiva – Swetharanyeswarar and the goddess is Brahma Vidya ambal. Budhan is said to bestow wisdom and intellect.

The structure of this east-facing Swetharanyeswarar Temple itself consists of two huge towers on the western and eastern sides. Thiruvenkadu Temple is surrounded by pancha prakarams. Here the Lord is consecrated in his forms as Aghoramurthi (manifestation of His wild and angry form) and Nataraja (a manifestation of Shiva, the celestial Dancer).The Nataraja image holds seven instruments and weapons, namely, Vetalam, Khadgam, Udukku, Mani, Kedayam, Kapalam and Trisulam.

The temple tank named Chandra Theertham is said to wash away all problems once someone takes a dip. Pilgrims perform parihara if they have Budha doshas.

This temple is believed to be originally built by Cholas but the present architecture is of Vijayanagara style of 16th Century.

Timings 6 am -12 pm and 4 pm -9 pm

KETHU TEMPLE

Keezhperumpallam Ketu temple was our next in the temple list. Naganathaswamy Temple

 is located in Keezhaperumpallam. The main idol in the temple is that of “Naganatha swamy”(Lord Shiva)  with his consort Soundaryanaki and the presiding deity is Ketu - a shadow planet. Here Ketu is enshrined with head of a snake and body of a demon. Naganathaswamy temple was constructed by Chola Kings. In this Kethu temple, Lord Kethu faces west in the north prakaram.

 Lord Kethu appears with the body in divine form, his head as a five-headed snake and the folded hands worshipping Lord Shiva.

This temple has two tier Rajagopuram with two precincts.

Timings -6 am –1 pm and 4 pm -8.30 pm

SANI TEMPLE

Next Navagraha temple we went to was at Tirunallar dedicated to Sri Sani Bhagawan located at Karaikal which was about 60 Km from Keezhperumpallam.

Tirunallar Saniswaran Temple or Dharbaranyeswarar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shani (Saturn) in Karaikal district of Pondicherry. The presiding deity is Lord Shiva, Dharbaranyeswar and the place Thirunallar was historically called Dharbaranyam

This is the only temple where Lord Shaneeshwara lost all his power to Lord Shiva (Dharbaranyeshwarar) which saved his devotee Nalan from Saturn’s curses. It is believed that by bathing in Nalatheertham here, one washes off all kinds of misfortunes and afflictions caused by one’s past karmas. Tirunallar Saniswaran Temple is of 12th century architecture.

The shrine of Shaneeshwara is to the north of the tower at the entrance. The Linga which King Nalan worshipped called Nalesar Lingam also is to be seen. Golden Ganapathy is unique to this temple. There are also shirnes for Lord Murugan, Adhiseshan, Nalanarayanar, Mahalakshmi and Bhariavar

Timings -6 am -12.30 pm and 4 pm-9 pm

SURYAN TEMPLE

Sooryanallar is about 10 Km from Kumbakonam and the temple here is dedicated to Lord Surya (Sun God).

It is located in the village of Suryanarkoil in the Thanjavur district. It is a very famous Surya Sthalam and is one of the Navagraha temples.

The Suryanar Kovil faces west. The presiding deity here is Suryanarayana in a chariot like vimaanam, representing the sun’s chariot. There are also shrines to Kasi Viswanathar, Visalakshi and Brihaspati (Guru) in the sanctum. Shrines to the other celestial bodies are located outside of the sanctum.

In the sanctum itself, Suryan stands with Usha Devi at his left and Chaya Devi at his right. Guru faces Suryan. The sanctum and the ardhamandapam are built of stone, while the rest of the shrines are brick structures. The KolTheerthaVinayakar shrine is considered to be of importance here. The tower of the temple is 15.5 meters in height and consists of three tiers. At the top of the tower are five domes. All the other seven grahams face Surya Bhagawan in this temple and have separate shrines inside the temple. The Lord’s vehicle is the horse, which goes by the name ‘Saptha', meaning seven in Sanskrit. The one-wheeled chariot is drawn by seven horses.

The entrance of the temple is adorned with a disc (Universe) with Surya in the chariot at the center surrounded by other eight grahas in respective directions representing eight directions.

Timings 6 am-12.30 pm and 4 pm -8 pm

CHANDRAN TEMPLE

Our last visit was to Thingalur which is about 30 km from Kumbakonam on way to Thanjavur.

The Kailasanathar Temple is one of the nine Navagrahasthalas located at Thingaloor. The presiding deity is Chandran - planet moon. However, the main idol in the temple is that of “Kailasanathar” or Shiva. The main deities worshipped here are Kailasanathar (Lord Shiva) and Goddess Periyanakiamman (Goddess Parvati).  We were told about a unique feature of Thingaloor Temple is that during the months of  September – October and March – April, the rays of the moon fall on the Shiva Lingam on full moon days. The temple is believed to be built by Cholas in 12th century.

Timings 7 am-1 pm and 4 pm -8 pm

A separate blog is being written on other important temples like Patteswaram Temple, Uppiliappan temple,Airawateswar temple,Sarangapani temple,  and Chakrapani temple near Kumbakonam.

For return journey we used the same train Myladuthari express 16231 from Thanjavur leaving Thanjavur at 7.45 pm to reach Bangalore around 5.30 am.